Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Could Russia feed fashion designers?

Mayya Frid, designer from Russia, whom I met during my studies in Istituto Europeo di Design, now lives in Moscow and continue to study fashion design in Moscow Institute of Art and Industry. Some years ago she started to collaborate with her friend and classmate Alice and they together fulfill the orders for individual clients. I asked her some questions in order to find out the current situation of Russian designers and their ambitions in the world of fashion.

Maria Estegneeva: What is style of your collections?

Mayya Frid: Well, we just create our first collection at the fourth year of studying. We had specific tasks before as making historical costumes or using untraditional materials. So I can say I did not have a complete collection making. But I know that I will not create trivial but simple clothes where beauty, comfort and uniqueness will be mixed. Everyone is tired of mainstream and fast fashion. Individuality is the trend. I would like to prolong the life of an item by people`s careful treatment to it and by the quality of the clothes itself. A customer should be in love with each detail of its clothing and to contribute him/her with it is my purpose.

ME: What is the inspiration in your collection this year?

MF: This year we create women collection including outer garments. That was the starting point for me. I was inspired by Gustav Klimt`s art: femininity, sophistication, sexuality, colours, gold. I began to think about my collection in the middle of autumn and Klimt`s inspiration matched a lot with the seasonal mood in the air.

(Klimt “Mona Lisa of Austria”, Levitan “Golden autumn”)

ME:What your course generally consist of?

MF: Our institute is one of the minority that allow students to come with no basic knowledge in painting or designing but at the end of 5 years you will learn

- how to paint, use illustrator and phtotshop, create effective sketches, using different techniques;

- to sew any types of the clothes range: from underwear to fur coats;

- how to construct male and female clothing including all sizes;

- breadboarding;

- history of fashion, art and design;

- the art of makeup;

- marketing.

ME: How you will estimate the level of education for designers in Russia?

MF: Everything depends on designer here. I think that the basis that is given to us is not that bad. And my education it is very practical, which is good. I know that many institutes remain very soviet. I mean they do not have modern contests among designers. MIIA is ing with a great speed and it organizes different projects for students. We take part in Russian Fashion Week. Different designers, stylists visit our shows and the best students are promoted then. I guess we have fascinated prospects.

ME: What are the main differences between educational system in Istituto Europeo di Design and Moscow Institute of Art and Industry?

MF: I think the main difference is the timing. Here I have two semesters and two main periods for tests. That means that during 4-5 months I am free to do whatever I like, while in Spain I had small tests and tasks permanently. I had much more projects at different disciplines at the same time. Here my aim is just to pass the exams so all my creative energy activates just before the sessions. As a result Russian students suffer from the lack of self-discipline in such system.

ME: Do you already have any potential offers not just from individual clients but other fashion houses or support organizations for young designers as Sunday Up Market to buy your clothes?

MF: Personally I did not have any offers like this, because I just create my first complete collection. But for example my friend and colleague Alice has already been offered to develop a collection in collaboration with one brand. She and other students also are invited by Sunday Up Market. Students take part in Night of Design and some other urban events and, of course, Russian Fashion Week.

ME: How do you see your future after graduation?

MF: Of course, my aim is creating my own brand. The company, I want to develop and work, could be a big Russian retailer of fashion or sport clothing. And I want my brand to extend abroad. But that is a long term object.

ME: What are the main problems which Russian designers face to?

MF: To my mind many Russian designers are just looking for their self-expression omitting the fact that the fashion industry is the one – it is united in general trends, colours. And of course to make a sort of promotion as taking part in shows and contests is very expensive.

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

Conceptual stores: the most relevant way of shopping in Russia

There is an interesting fact that concept stores in Russia appeared before they actually became popular worldwide.
Today we are going to make an excursion to all of them and check their stockists.
So I tried to gather all of them in this post and you might also like to read an interesting article The Rise of the Russian Concept Boutique.

Le Form
Le Form opened their doors in December 1997. From the beginning of the working the store made the rate on sale of original clothes, footwear and accessories of the designers which, it is accepted, to term vanguard.
In December 2000 the store expanded its assortment of the shop and to offer the clients not only fashionable clothes but style of life. The list of the designers and brands whose collections are sold in the boutique all time varies and replenishes with new names which Le Form opens for the Russian customers. Those who make purchases here trust to Le Form's taste and know that even unfamiliar brand not accidentally has got in a field of vision of Le Form and is in a worth to notice by the visitors of the shop.
It is possible to get not only clothes, footwear, belts, bags, jewellery in boutique, but also to buy accessories for houses and some of perfumery. Moreover people like to come here to buy the original gifts in eve of holidays.

0044, 120%, A common thread, A. F. Vandevorst, Adam Kimmel, Add, Annapurna, Attchamnet/ Kazayuki Kumagai, Avelon, Biryukov, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Brooklyn We Go Hard, C. P. Company, Christian Wijnants, Claude Maus, Coming soon, Comme de Garcons, Damir Doma, Decotis, Derercuny, Dries van Noten, Drome, Elsa esturgie, Es`givien, Fabrizio del Carlo, Forme D, Gorgio Brato/WLG, Golden Goose, Golem, Greorgy Parkinson, Hannes Roether, Haute, Helmut Lang, Il by Saori Komatsu, Ilaria Nistri, Inshade, Isaac Sellam, Isabel Benenato, James Perse, John Smedley, Julius, Junya Watabane, Kinder Fashion Design, Kristensen du Nord, Krisitna Gorina, L. G. B., Le Magnifique, Lempelius, Lena Tsokalenko, Lili Petrus, Lost and Found, Ludmila Norsoyan, Lumen et Umbra, M. A+, M/Marani, Maison Martin Margiela, Masnada, Muna Perhonen, Misericordia, Muubaa, N. Holywood, Narmata Joshipura, Nicolas & Mark, Nicole Farhi, Nina Donis, No Editions, Odyn Vovk, Paechoo+ Krejberg, Phillipe Alvergne, Poustovit, Pyrenex, Rick Owens, Sacai, Sara Lanzi, Sara Luna, Sharon Wauchob, Shellac, Side Slope, Sigi, Spiewak, Stone Island, Stouls, Syngman Cucala, Tamburlaine, Tao Comme de garcons, The Viridi-Anne, Thom Krom, Transit Uomo, Tsumori Chisato, Veronique Branquinho, Volga Volga, Whyszeck, YMC, Yohji Yamamoto, Yves Salomon.

Kuznetsky Most 20
This store that provides a pleasant and fulfilling shopping experience for the intelligent Muscovites and guest of the capital;
Premium and middle-priced brands.

AF Vandevorst, Bless, Common projects, David Koma, Dover street market, Isaac Reina, Hussein Chalayan, Marios Schwab, Mark Fast, Sophia Kokosalsaki, Vivien Westwood, Visbol de Acre, Raf Simons, Rick Owens Lilies, Jeremy Laing, Bernard Willhelm, Arielle de Pinto, Adam Kimmel, Ashish, Comme de Garcons Play, Commuun, Husam el Odeh, Henrik Vibskom
, Kitsune, Mark Fast, Meadham Kirchhoff, Sandra Backlund.

Cara & Co
Cara&Co has been built on a firm philosophy of researching and buying the most cutting edge selections which reflect the very latest directions from around the world in order to secure those true “pearls” before they inevitably become part of the commercial mass.
Cara&Co is for those men and women who value design philosophy more than simply the label; who are true to their taste more than the fame of a logo; and who are genuine lovers of fashion
and not simply its victims. Fashion, Life-Style, Break, Books and the Vintage area — each one of these zones has its own cult object.
You can look upon a trip to this store
as a visit to a museum full of amazing things. But unlike museum displays, where each item has to stay firmly in its place, at Cara & Co all the objects can move around in space, which is what gives the shop life.

Akira, Alan Myerson, Alessi, Ann Louise Roswald, Anthony Luchiano, Assouline, Bebaroque , Bettina Liano, Bitte Kai Rand, Casey Vidalenc, Cathy Pill, Cerruti, Christophe Coppens, Coragroppo, Corsia, Delvaux, Diane De Maria, Dinosaur Designs, Fernando Frisoni, Friedrich Gray, G&L, gene par Yukio Mishiba, General Idea, Goti, Issey Miyake, iWood ecodesign, Jayson Brunsdon, Jean Paul Knott, Junko Shimada, Karla Spetic, Ksubi, l'Atelier des Tuileries, Laurent Guillot, Metalicus, Minority, Murdoch Books, No logos Fashion Only, Nobody, P
ratten, Queene and Belle, Rittenhouse, Robert Clergerie, Serguei Povaguin, Theo,Tim Van Steenbergen, Tzuri Gueta, UnNaKeD, Volta,World.

Mood Swings
Mood Swings Apartment Store is a store for women fashion with concept selection of European and Japanese Intellectual brands. Design of a shop is structures in order to satisfy woman`s preference during shopping. In order to be pleasant to woman` s mood changes the interior of a store is divided into four different styles-sections.
Simple — minimalism, Classic — modern elegancy, Funny — bright colours,Avangard — experimental shapes.
Mood Swings Apartment Store is new opening in Mosco
w with amazing unusual interior by Fredrick Nilsby and Cyril Duva. Inspiration of Alice in Wonderland is subject for interior.

A Friend, American Retro, Baum und Pferdgarten, Edith & Ella, Filippa K, Ganni, Hoss, Intropia, Jane Koenig, Lotta Djossou, Mads Norgaard, Maria Westerlind, MM6, Rutzou, Shoe Biz,Twist & Tango, Benoit Meleard, Cacharel, LaRare, Nina Ricci, Tina Haagensen, Tsumori Chisato, Undercover,Viktor & Ro, Acne, AF Vandevorst, Bernhard Willhelm, Bless, Comme des Garcons, Cosmic Wonder, Limi Feu, Avoca Anthology, IVANAhelsinki, Jancovek, JC de
Castelbajac, Marimekko, Minä Perhonen.

Twins S.h.o.p.p.

This boutique was opened within the club 2 years ago. Its owners – twins Yulia and Inga not only named it but also invented the concept – to give the young things an opportunity to express themselves.
Brands represented in this boutique were selected by sisters during their numerous journeys and personal acquaintances with young designers.
You notice special approach in everything – special approach in every
thing, diligent choice of collections and the most significant – in that careful family-like warm treatment of the customers.
One of the main aims is to present not just a set of clothes but to create a certain story: the story of sisters’ journeys, story of their acquaintances, discoveries, expectations and disappointments, their world-view – all that things that compose our lives.

Nutsa Modebadze, Galogaza, Junk de Luxe, Jancovek, Von Sono, Elke Kramer, Gosha Rubchinsky, Modern Amusement, Inshade, Dallas&Vegas, Hope, Michelle Jank, Lungta de Fancy, D.Co, Mine, Lowie, Anna Vince, Angelika Paskbeck, Stevej&Yonip, Dr. Denim, Uniforms for the Dedicated, Steve Mono, Masha Yankovskaya, Emma.Go.


3 floors of 3,14 Project store was just devoted to men fashion from its opening in October, 2010. Now female collections are also added. Half of the collection is from Japanese designers and there are also some European brands complete it. They also sell vintage clothes and accessories bought in different open markets of Europe. They also have unique pieces from the different collections.
The concept idea is to concentrate on intellectual public, that is why the space of the stor
e is used for installations. Some of the artists, like Japanese Shimura Bros and The Viridi-Anne had already made one.

Attachment, Alessandra March, Adiciannoveventitre, John Bull, Mihara Yasuhiro, Goti, Julius, MA+, Individual Sentiments, Trosman, If Six Was Nine, Layer-0, Ku
ro,The Viridi-Anne, Devoa, Volga Volga, Guidi, Walter Van Beirendonck, Carol Christian Poell, In Aisce, Werkstaat Munchen, Undercover and Lost Found.

UK Style
UK Style is a boutique in English style. Here design objects? Clothes and accessories are reflecting the the culture if London and Great Britain.
The mission of the store is to present and promote English design and style in Moscow. They select their clothes being equally admired and interests as in designers of the luxe category so the unknown brands of progressive street fashion. The complements
from UK Style would be different English objects in traditional style, diversity of exclusive accessories and jewelries, design toys and many others. You will also find the “dresses presented exclusively by one copy to a capital”.

Alexander Boyd, A.P.C., Aquascutum, Barbour, Boudicca, B Store, D.S.Dundee, Fred Perry, Gloverall, Hackett, Jonathan Saunders, Margaret Howell, Markus Lupfer, Mary Katrantzou, Opening Ceremony, Our Legacy, Peter Jensen, Preen, Pretty Green, Pringle of Scotland, Richard James, Richard Nicoll, Rodebjer, Sophie Hulme, Stylein, Antony & Alison, B clothes, Beyond the Valley, Cutler and Gross, Chauncey, Chester Jefferies, Eley Kishimoto, Emma Cook, Georgina Goodman, il by Saori Komats, Jo Gardon, Josephin Strid, John Smedle, Kitsune, Margaret Howell, Martin Grant , Markus Lupfer, Mary Katranzou , Mayla, Minimarket,Olyslager Bros, Orla Kiely, Roksanda Ilincic, Steven Alan, Trickers, Velour, Vilshenko, Whyred , Wood Wood, YMC, Bill Amberg, D.S.Dundee, Drakes, Hildithc&Key, Hentsch man, Mr.Start.

Tsvetnoy Central Market

Tsvetnoy Central Market store is going to revitalize the place where once the major market of the city was located.
Our objective is to ensure that the customers of Tsvetnoy Central Market will really enjoy shopping through creating an atmosphere, which inspires to come back again and again. This is the area where the contemporary art stars work with young artists side by side and where the world's fashion retail leaders share space with authentic local masters. Everything, starting from high quality design to excellent services, creates a unique atmosphere both for brands and for customers.
Tsvetnoy Central Market makes shopping a real art, therefore ranging with the leading malls in New-York, London, Paris, Milan and Hong-Kong. Tsvetnoy Central Market provides a stylish mix from classic outfit to the most desirable novelties from the world's podiums to meet day-to-day demands of the most exacting customers, which is possible
only due to an exclusive approach applied to selection of international brands.
Besides fashionable clothes and accessories, our store offers a comprehensive cosmetic and perfume line, a unique Lifestyle concept. The farmers' market of the store is remarkable for an unprecedented range of ecological products. Café and a restaurant with terrace and panoramic view for the "Old" Moscow will attract the Muscovites and the guests of the capital.

Azzurra Gronchi, Jas MB, Jerome Dreyfuss, Pauric Sweeney, Marsell, Repetto, Rika, Tom Binns, Vanessa Bruno, Vivienne Westwood, Zero & Maria Cornejo, A Brand Apart + Borsalino, Cash Ca, Delicious Freaks, Denis Colomb, Ebony & Ivory, Eribe, Faliero Sarti, Maison Fabre, Missoni, Paschbeck Fummel + Kram, Philip Treacy, Siu Yin Chau, William Sharp, Topshop and Topman, Mango, Promod, Ichi, Adidas, Lacoste, Abercrombie & Fitch, All Saints, Reiss, Maje, IRO, Zadig & Voltaire, Junk Delux, Diesel, DIM, JNBY, True Religion, By Malene Birger, Lyle & Scott, Croquis, Mou and Hookipa, Ann Demeulemeester, Blayde, Coming Soon, Haider Ackermann, Helmut Lang, IAN R.N, Ilaria Nistri & Rogue by Ilaria Nistri, Inshade, Kolor, Ohne Titel, Rick Owens & Lilies by Rick Owens, Sharon Wauchob, Toga, Zero + Maria Cornejo, David Koma, Felder Felder, Herve Leger, Hockley, Louise Goldin Lulu & Co, Marios Schwab, Peter Pilotto, Threeasfour, Yves Salomon Furs, 6126, Acne, Beatrice Boyle for Browns Focus T-shirts, Boy by Band of Outsiders, Elizabeth & James, HH Haute Hippie, L'Agence, Lee Jeans by Vivienne Westwood, Lot 78, McQ by Alexander McQueen, MM6, Tom Binns T-shirts, Vanessa Bruno, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Alice by Alice Temperley, Athé, APC, Iro, Paul & Joe Sister, Rika, Rozae R.N., See By Chloe, Vivienne Westwood Anglomania , Pedro Garcia, Repetto, Rick Owens, Sebastian, See by Chloe, Sigerson Morrison, Vanessa Bruno.